The appeal and the bill that comes later
Wood is the material many people picture when they think of a backyard fence. It looks natural, it is widely available and nearly every installer knows how to build with it. The tradeoff is that wood is a living-origin material that reacts to moisture, sun and insects. A wood fence is rarely a build-it-and-forget-it purchase, and the ongoing work is the largest drawback. This article covers upkeep and general tradeoffs. How wood stands up to intrusion is a separate topic, and styles are covered in the article on wood fence styles.
Advantages
A natural, warm look. Wood blends with gardens and with many house styles. It can be left to weather to a soft gray or finished in a tint that complements the house. If you want to understand the visual appeal further, the notes on wood fence appeal expand on it.
Easy to modify. Boards can be cut, replaced, extended or reshaped with common tools. You can add a gate, lattice, a topper or a trellis without special parts. A damaged board can often be swapped without replacing a whole section, as in the guide to replacing rotted fence boards.
Wide choice of styles and heights. Wood can be built as solid privacy, board-on-board, spaced pickets or rustic rails. Options such as a shadowbox fence provide airflow and a finished look from both sides.
Often lower up-front cost. In many areas wood is cheaper to buy and install than metal or vinyl, though prices vary with species, grade and local lumber costs. Compare written quotes rather than assuming.
Familiar to builders. Because it is so common, finding someone to install or repair it is usually straightforward. It is also a typical choice for beginner DIY projects.
Disadvantages
Sealing and staining. Unprotected wood absorbs water, then dries, swells and shrinks. That can lead to warping, checking (small splits) and graying. A water-repellent sealer or stain helps, and many guides suggest reapplying every few years, with the interval depending on the product, the species and the exposure. The steps involved are described in staining and sealing a wood fence. Plan for the time or the cost, as it recurs.
Rot. Moisture is the biggest enemy. The most vulnerable places are where wood touches the ground, where posts sit in wet soil, and at end grain on top of boards where water pools. Good drainage helps, as explained in the notes on fence drainage. Keeping boards slightly off the ground, choosing rot-resistant species or pressure-treated lumber, and making sure water can run off all reduce the risk. They do not eliminate it.
Insects. Termites, carpenter ants and other wood-boring insects can damage fences, depending on the region. Read the guide to wood-boring insects for signs to look for.
Mold and mildew. Shaded, damp fences can turn green or black. Cleaning is possible, but it is another chore.
Shorter or variable lifespan. How long a wood fence lasts varies widely with the species, treatment, soil, climate and how well it is maintained. A well-cared-for fence can last many years, and a neglected one in a wet climate may need major repairs sooner. Do not rely on any single number, and ask local builders what they commonly see.
Posts are the weak link. Posts that are buried in soil often fail before the boards do. Setting them on proper footings and in the right materials matters, as covered in the discussion of post footings.
Movement and maintenance of gates. Wooden gates can sag over time because of their weight. Diagonal bracing and sturdy hardware help, as covered in the article on gate bracing.
Splinters and finish wear. Rough boards can cause splinters, and paint or stain can flake. Repainting needs surface preparation, which the guide to painting fences describes.
What the upkeep actually looks like
A typical routine, adjusted for your climate, might include:
- A yearly walk along the fence to look for loose boards, popped nails or screws, leaning posts and soft spots.
- Cleaning off dirt and mildew as needed.
- Resealing or restaining when water no longer beads on the surface.
- Trimming plants back and keeping soil, mulch and sprinkler spray away from the bottom of the boards.
- Replacing damaged boards promptly, so problems do not spread.
If that list sounds like a chore you would rather skip, consider a fence with lower maintenance needs. You can compare options in the guide to low-upkeep fencing.
Ways to reduce the burden
- Choose rot-resistant wood or good-quality treated lumber, and ask about what is recommended in your area.
- Use corrosion-resistant fasteners, since rusting nails can stain boards and loosen. See the notes on fence fasteners.
- Seal cut ends and keep a gap at the ground.
- Finish the fence soon after it is built, once the wood has dried enough for the product you are using. Follow the product instructions.
- Plan for airflow and drainage so water does not sit.
Who it suits
Wood tends to work well for homeowners who enjoy a natural look, are happy to do (or pay for) periodic upkeep, and like the flexibility of a material that is easy to change. It is a poorer match for people who want to leave a fence alone for a decade. Before building, check local rules, permits, HOA requirements, property lines and utility locations, and decide how much time you really want to spend on upkeep.