Fence Types and Materials

Everything You Need to Know About Chain Link Fencing

Chain link basics: mesh, gauge, coatings, posts, common uses, privacy slats and the limits that matter if you are weighing it for your property.

On this page
  1. What chain link is
  2. The parts
  3. Common uses
  4. Privacy slats and screening
  5. Security value and limits
  6. Upkeep
  7. Cost and installation
  8. Before you build

Chain link fencing is made from steel wire woven into a diamond-pattern mesh, stretched between posts and held at the top and bottom with rails or tension wire. It is one of the most common fence types in the world because it is affordable, durable and quick to install. It is rarely thought of as beautiful, but it is practical, and finishes and add-ons can improve its look.

The parts

Mesh (fabric). The woven wire. Its main specifications are gauge and opening size.

Gauge. This is the thickness of the wire, and a smaller gauge number means thicker wire. Heavier wire (lower gauge numbers) is stronger, harder to cut and generally costs more. Residential fences commonly use lighter gauges than commercial or industrial installations. Ask a supplier what is available and how products are rated, since labeling varies.

Opening size. The diamond openings are commonly about two inches across in many residential products, with other sizes available. Smaller openings are harder to climb and keep out smaller animals, but they use more material.

Coatings. Bare steel rusts, so the wire is usually protected. Galvanized (zinc-coated) wire is the common standard, and aluminized versions are also made. Vinyl-coated mesh adds a colored plastic layer, commonly black, green or brown, which looks less industrial and adds further corrosion protection. Coatings can be scratched or chipped, and rust may start where metal is exposed.

Posts and rails. Terminal posts at ends, corners and gates carry the tension, while line posts support the mesh between. A top rail or tension wire keeps the fabric taut. Posts are usually galvanized steel tubing set in concrete footings. Strong terminal posts are essential, because a sagging chain link fence is usually the result of weak ends or poor tensioning. Sound post footings and correct post depth matter here as in any fence.

Fittings. Tension bands, brace bands, tie wires and caps hold everything together. Using fittings matched to the system and in good condition is important.

Common uses

  • Boundary and containment for dogs, children and yards, especially large ones.
  • Side and rear yards, utility areas, parking areas and storage.
  • Sports courts, schools and playgrounds, where visibility matters.
  • Temporary or budget fencing, since it can be installed quickly.
  • A base for other screening, such as privacy slats or planting.

Privacy slats and screening

Slats are plastic or aluminum strips woven through the mesh to block sight lines. They create privacy without replacing the fence. Pros and cons are worth weighing:

  • Slats add cost and effort, and they can fade or crack in sun and cold.
  • A filled-in fence catches more wind, increasing the load on posts. Wind load is worth thinking about in exposed areas.
  • Slats reduce the visibility that makes chain link useful for security.
  • Windscreen fabric and planted hedges are other options; a living fence of shrubs growing along the fence line can soften its look.

Security value and limits

Chain link is tough against impact and keeps lines of sight open, so neighbors and cameras can see through. But it has well-known weaknesses:

  • The diamond openings offer toe-holds, so it is easy to climb.
  • Lighter gauges can be cut with common hand tools such as bolt cutters.
  • Without bottom tension wire or a buried barrier, the base can be lifted or dug under.
  • Barbed-wire or similar toppers are restricted in many residential areas and can injure people, so avoid them unless clearly allowed.

Chain link therefore does well as a boundary and containment fence, and poorly as a stand-alone deterrent. Where deterrence matters, taller heights, heavier gauge, small-opening mesh and strong posts help, and many people choose another material altogether.

Upkeep

Chain link has among the lowest upkeep of any fence. Rinse off dirt, trim vegetation that climbs through the mesh, check for rust at cut or damaged spots, and re-tighten ties or fittings as needed. Vines can pull a fence out of shape, so keep them in check. Replacing a damaged section is usually simpler than repairing a wooden panel.

Cost and installation

Chain link is typically on the lower end of the cost range, particularly in basic galvanized form. Coated mesh, higher gauges and taller heights add to the cost. Installation is manageable for a capable DIY builder, though stretching and tensioning the mesh takes tools and care, and a professional may be wise for long or tall runs or gates.

Before you build

Check local rules. Some neighborhoods and HOAs restrict chain link in front yards or visible areas, and many cities regulate fence height and placement. Confirm property lines, learn whether permits are required, and have buried utilities marked before digging.

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