What a gate hinge actually has to do
A gate hinge has a harder job than a door hinge. A door is held by a frame on all sides when closed, but a gate hangs from one post with nothing else supporting it when open. The weight of the gate acts like a lever: the top hinge is pulled away from the post and the bottom hinge is pushed into it. A hinge therefore needs to be strong where it is fastened and where it pivots, and it needs a post that will not move.
Several styles are common. Their names overlap a little between manufacturers, so look at the shape and the fastening method rather than relying only on the name.
Strap hinges
A strap hinge has a long flat leaf, the strap, that runs across the face of the gate, and a pin or eye that fits onto a mounting on the post. Spreading the load along a long strap, with several fasteners, suits board-style wooden gates because it grips more than one board. Strap hinges are common on garden gates, shed doors and farm gates. They come in plain, decorative and heavy forms, and the longer and thicker the strap, the more weight it can usually carry.
They are not a cure for a gate that is too heavy for its posts, and a strap fastened with short screws into end grain will pull out. Bolts that go through the frame are more dependable.
T-hinges
A T-hinge has a long strap on the gate and a short leaf, shaped like the top bar of a T, on the post or frame. It is, in effect, a strap hinge with one shortened side. It works well for light to medium wooden gates, especially where the post is narrow, because only the strap needs a long run of the gate. It has the classic cottage look and is often paired with a simple latch.
Because the short leaf has fewer fasteners, T-hinges are usually a better match for lighter gates. For a tall or wide gate, a full strap or heavy-duty style often makes more sense.
Butt hinges
A butt hinge is the familiar two-leaf hinge used on interior doors, with the leaves folding together. Standard door butt hinges are generally too light for outdoor gates. Heavier gate versions exist, sometimes made for welding to a steel frame, and they suit metal gates where the leaves can be attached solidly. On wood, a butt hinge is usually set into a recess in the edge of the gate and post. That construction is neat and tidy but puts a lot of stress on a small area of wood, so it fits light, well-built wooden gates and lighter pedestrian gates rather than big ones.
Adjustable hinges
Adjustable hinges let you change the position of the gate after it is hung, typically by moving a threaded pin or a bolt to raise, lower or shift the gate by a small amount. They are common on metal and vinyl gates, and are often sold as bolt-on or weld-on sets. Their main advantage is that real posts do settle and move slightly, and a gate that was perfectly aligned in spring can start to rub or miss its latch by fall. Being able to nudge the gate back is a real convenience.
They are worth considering for any gate where a close fit between the gate and the latch matters, such as a pool gate, and where it would be hard to reposition the posts. Adjustment does not make up for a leaning post, but it can extend the useful life of a decent installation. Check any instructions that come with the hardware for the adjustment range, because it is often small.
Heavy-duty and ball-bearing hinges
Heavy-duty hinges are sized for large, solid or wide gates, such as a driveway gate, a solid wood gate or a gate with metal infill. They usually have thicker leaves or barrels and a larger pin, and many use a bearing or bushing so the gate turns smoothly under load. Some are bolted through a post, and some are welded to steel posts and frames.
A heavy hinge deserves a heavy post and a deep footing. If the post is the weak link, a bigger hinge simply moves the point of failure. For very large gates, designs from a manufacturer that states load ratings for the hinge are preferable to guessing, and automatic gates need professional guidance and safety devices. Heavy hinges also often need greasing, so check what the maker recommends.
Quick comparison
| Hinge style | Typical fit | Main caution |
|---|---|---|
| Strap | Board-style wood gates, farm and garden gates | Needs through-bolts or long fasteners |
| T-hinge | Light to medium wooden gates, cottage looks | Short leaf limits load |
| Butt | Light gates; heavy versions for welded metal gates | Door-weight versions are too light |
| Adjustable | Metal, vinyl or tight-fitting gates | Adjustment range is limited |
| Heavy-duty | Wide, solid or heavy gates | Needs strong posts and footings |
Choosing for your gate
Start with the material and weight of the gate and the strength of the post. Then think about how precisely the gate needs to line up. The next factor is exposure. Hinges in wet or salty air should be galvanized, stainless or well coated, as discussed in the article on corrosion-resistant hardware. Hinges for gates meant to close on their own may be a different kind, as covered in the article on self-closing hinges.
A few other points tend to matter:
- Use fasteners made for outdoor use and long enough to bite into solid material.
- Use two hinges on small gates, and consider a third on tall or heavy ones.
- Place hinges symmetrically enough that they share the load, with the top hinge near the top rail and the bottom near the bottom rail.
- Leave a small, even gap along the hinge side, as the gate may swell in damp seasons.
If a gate keeps dropping on its latch side, look at the posts and the frame before blaming the hinges. Many of the usual gate sag causes come from loose posts or an unbraced frame rather than hinge style. Local building codes may also set rules about swing direction and clearance, for example for pool enclosures and pedestrian routes, so check them before you finalize your choice.