From a staked line to a shopping list
Once the boundary and fence line are settled, measuring becomes a counting problem: how long is each run, where are the corners and gates, and how many posts, rails and panels does that produce? This article covers that second half. The first half, finding the boundary and marking the line, depends on careful property line measuring.
Start with the fence line staked and strung. Measuring against a visible string line is much more accurate than measuring over grass.
Tools and habits
- A long tape (100 ft or more) or a measuring wheel, plus a short tape for openings
- A notebook or a simple sketch with a labeled side for every run
- A helper to hold the tape end, since a sagging tape reads long
- Stakes and marking paint
- A phone calculator
Measure each run twice and note the numbers. Round up when ordering, never down, and think about waste and mistakes.
Measure runs
A run is a straight stretch between corners, ends or gates. Label each one (for example, “Run A: left side”) and measure from the center of one corner or end post to the center of the next. Using post centers keeps the arithmetic consistent. On sloping ground, panels can be installed stepped or racked; either way, measure along the horizontal for post spacing, and note slope separately for height and gap decisions.
Measure gate openings
Gate openings are different from other spaces because the gate and its hardware have exact dimensions. Note:
- the clear opening you want (what must pass through)
- the gate leaf width plus hinge and latch clearance, which you should confirm from the gate’s specifications
- the gate post size and footing, which are larger than line posts
- the height, so the gate top meets or matches the fence top
A pedestrian gate often needs a clear width suitable for a wheelbarrow or mower, and a vehicle gate needs the width of the vehicle with mirrors plus room for error. Do not guess, and check the gate manufacturer’s published dimensions.
Count corners and ends
Each corner needs a post, and corners and ends typically carry more strain, so they may need extra bracing or a bigger footing. See fence corners for how designs differ. Mark every corner, end and gate post on your sketch, and count them separately from line posts.
Choose post spacing
Post spacing depends on the panel or rail length and the material. Panels often come in standard lengths, commonly around 6 to 8 feet, though this varies by product. Wooden rail fences and wire fences have their own typical spacing. Use the product specifications and local rules rather than a generic number, and consider wind load, since wider spacing and taller or solid fences put more load on each post.
Turn the numbers into a list: a hypothetical example
All numbers below are made up to show the arithmetic. Suppose the fence is U-shaped, attached to the house at both ends, and the three runs measure:
- Left side: 40 ft
- Back: 56 ft
- Right side: 40 ft
Total length: 40 + 56 + 40 = 136 ft.
Assume panels of 8 ft, with posts at 8 ft centers.
- Left side: 40 / 8 = 5 sections
- Back: 56 / 8 = 7 sections
- Right side: 40 / 8 = 5 sections
Total sections: 5 + 7 + 5 = 17.
Posts: because the runs are connected end to end, with corners shared, a continuous line has one more post than sections. So 17 + 1 = 18 posts, which include the two corner posts. If instead the fence ends at house walls with a post at each end, the count is the same. Check your own layout against the sketch, because a break in the line for a gate adds posts.
Now add a gate. Suppose a 4 ft walk gate replaces part of the back run. The back then has a 4 ft gate plus 52 ft of fence, and 52 / 8 = 6.5 sections, which is not a whole number. In practice you would adjust: change the spacing slightly, cut one panel, or move the gate. Each solution changes the count. This is why you should sketch the layout and place the gate before ordering, rather than dividing a total length by panel size.
Then add extras and a margin: a couple of spare pickets or panels, enough fasteners for the count, concrete or gravel for each post, and gate hardware. For footing quantities, check the product guidance; see post footings for the approaches.
Allow for waste and mistakes
Cut pieces create offcuts, and a few units will be damaged or miscut. A common practice is to add a modest allowance, but the right amount depends on the material and your experience, so ask the supplier. For wood, picking through the stack for straight pieces may also reduce usable stock.
Double-check before ordering
- Do the runs add up to the total on your survey line, allowing for gate openings?
- Does the sketch show every post, corner and gate?
- Is the fence height the same across runs, and does it respect local limits?
- Have you checked setback and height limits and any permit requirements?
- Did you confirm that utilities are located and that none sit where a post will go?
If you plan to hire, give each installer your measurements and sketch, and ask them to confirm on site. A good installer will check your numbers anyway, and a difference between your figures and theirs is worth understanding before you sign.
Keep your measurement record
Save the sketch and numbers. They help if you need to repair a section later, add a gate or match material. Photos of the staked line with the string in place also help.