Before you start building
This sequence assumes the planning is done: the boundary is confirmed, any permit or association approval is in hand, buried lines have been marked, and materials are delivered. If not, deal with those first. The steps below describe a typical wood or panel fence, and details vary with the material and the manufacturer’s instructions, which take priority over general advice.
Step 1: Lay out the line
Drive a stake at each end and each corner, and run mason’s string between them. Pull it tight so it does not sag, and check that corners are square by measuring diagonals, which should match for a true rectangle. For a simple rectangle, the 3-4-5 triangle method is another well-known check. Mark post positions along the string with paint or small stakes.
Start from fixed points, such as corners and gate openings, and divide the space between them evenly. This avoids a short, awkward section at one end. Typical post spacing is often in the range of six to eight feet for wood fences, but panels have their own fixed widths, so measure from the panel, not from habit. Where the fence turns or ends, our notes on fence corners explain how the extra framing works.
Step 2: Dig the post holes
Hole depth and width depend on post height, soil and climate. A frequently quoted guideline is to bury about one third of the post’s total length, and in cold regions the footing is commonly taken below the frost line. Check what your area expects, and read about post depth if you are unsure. A hole is usually dug wider than the post, often about three times its width, to leave room for backfill or concrete.
Keep the string line as a reference, but dig the center of each hole at the mark. Hand tools suit a few holes, while an auger saves effort over a long line. If you hit a root or rock, do not force it. Adjust the post position slightly, if the layout allows, or ask for advice, as it may affect the fence line.
Put a few inches of gravel in the bottom of each hole if drainage is a concern. This is a common practice that gives water somewhere to go instead of sitting at the post base.
Step 3: Set the posts
Set the end and corner posts first. Use a level on two adjacent faces to get them plumb, and brace them with scrap lumber. Then run a string between them at the top height or at a known distance from the top, and set the line posts to match it. This produces a fence with an even top without measuring each post separately.
Footings can use poured concrete, quick-setting mixes or compacted gravel, each with tradeoffs, which are discussed under post footings. Slope the top of any concrete away from the post so water drains off. Check plumb again before the material sets, because it is easy to nudge a post while backfilling.
Let footings cure for the time the product directs before loading them. Hanging rails or boards too early can shift the posts.
Step 4: Attach the rails
Rails are the horizontal members that tie the posts together. In many wood fences there are two or three, depending on height. Mark their height on the first post, transfer it along the line with a level or string, and fix them either between posts using brackets or on the post faces.
Use fasteners made for outdoor use and suited to the wood, since some treated lumber corrodes ordinary steel. Our piece on fence fasteners explains the options. Predrilling near ends helps prevent splits.
Step 5: Fit the panels or boards
If you are using prefabricated panels, lift each one into place, check it for level, and fix it according to the maker’s guidance. For built-up fences, start at one end with a straight, plumb first board, as every later board follows it. Use a spacer block to keep gaps even, and check level every few boards. If the top drifts, correct it gradually, not in a single visible jump.
Keep the bottom edge a small distance above the ground so wood does not sit in soil or standing water. A common gap is a couple of inches, but panel instructions and local conditions vary.
Where the ground slopes, decide in advance whether to follow it or step the panels. Our guide to sloped ground fencing explains the options, and the choice affects post lengths and cuts.
Step 6: Finish the details
Add post caps, trim exposed ends, and sand any rough spots. Apply stain, sealer or paint to suit the material. Most wood benefits from finish being applied soon after installation, although some products call for the wood to dry first, so follow the label. The notes on fence staining cover the usual steps.
Fill and compact soil around the posts, and slope it slightly away. Clear the line of stakes, strings and waste.
Step 7: Walk the line
Check posts for movement, fasteners for tightness, and gaps for evenness. Look along the fence from each end to see whether it reads as straight. Fix small issues now, before they become noticeable. Plan another look after the first rain and again after the first season, as new fences settle and wood moves.