Why measuring well saves trouble
A materials list is only as good as the measurements behind it. Too little and the job stalls while you wait for more of a product that may come from a different batch. Too much and you pay for what you do not need. The process below is simple, but it rewards care and a second check. Always measure the actual ground, not a drawing from memory, and write everything down.
Tools
You need a long tape measure or a measuring wheel, stakes, string, a notebook or a phone for notes, and a helper to hold the far end. A level and a plumb line help with slopes. A sketch pad is useful, because a drawing catches mistakes that numbers alone can hide.
Step 1: Confirm the line
Before measuring for materials, confirm where the fence will actually go. A property survey shows boundary lengths, but measuring on site is still needed, and the fence may be set inside the boundary by a chosen distance. If you are unsure about lines, our piece on property line measuring explains how that side works. Decide the line first, mark it with stakes and string, and measure the string.
Step 2: Measure each straight run
Split the line into straight runs, with a break wherever the direction changes, a gate opens or a fixed object stands in the way. Measure each run from the center of one end post position to the center of the next. Record each length on your sketch, and label runs with letters or numbers.
On sloping ground, decide whether you will follow or step the fence, as this affects whether you measure along the ground or horizontally. See the notes on stepped panels in the article about sloping yards.
Step 3: Note the corners, ends and obstacles
Mark every corner and every end. Corners and ends need their own posts, and often extra bracing. The treatment of fence corners affects the number of posts and rails. Also mark obstacles such as trees, utility boxes, steps and downpipes. Where the fence meets a house wall or an existing structure, record how the end will be finished.
Step 4: Measure gate openings
Gates are measured differently from fence runs. Decide the gate width you want, then add space for hinges, the latch gap and the posts. Gate manufacturers usually specify the opening needed for each gate size, so follow that. If you are making a gate, plan the frame dimensions after the posts are set. A small error on a gate opening is harder to fix than an error in a fence run, which is why many people leave gate sizing until the posts are in. Record the swing direction and the hinge side as well.
Step 5: Work out the number of sections
Divide each run by the section length. If you use prefabricated panels, the panel width sets the spacing, and you will probably need to adjust the layout so that sections come out evenly. If you are building on site, post spacing is flexible, though rails and boards have usable lengths. Typical spacing for wood fences is often six to eight feet, but follow the product.
Where the division does not come out even, spread the difference across several sections instead of leaving one short one. This looks neater and is usually stronger.
Step 6: Count the posts
For a straight run, the number of posts equals the number of sections plus one. For a connected line, shared corner posts are counted once. Add the gate posts, and add extra posts where the design needs bracing, such as at corners and ends.
A hypothetical example
Suppose a straight run is 100 feet, post center to post center, and includes one gate section of 4 feet. The fence panels are 8 feet wide.
- Length left for panels: 100 - 4 = 96 feet.
- Panels needed: 96 / 8 = 12 panels.
- Sections including the gate: 12 + 1 = 13.
- Posts: 13 + 1 = 14, of which two are gate posts.
These numbers are only for illustration. Your run, your panels and your gate will differ, and a real gate needs its opening checked against the hardware instructions.
Step 7: Convert to a materials list
Work through each component:
- Posts, with length including the buried portion. Our guide to post depth shows what to include.
- Rails per section, based on fence height.
- Boards, pickets or panels, with a little extra for cuts and defects.
- Footing material for each post.
- Fasteners and brackets of the right type, as discussed in fence fasteners.
- Gate frame, hinges and latch.
- Caps, trim and finish.
Add a modest allowance for waste. The right amount depends on the material and how many cuts you will make, so ask the supplier for typical guidance.
Step 8: Check twice
Re-walk the line with your drawing. Measure a few runs again, count the posts on the ground, and look for anything you missed, such as a tree that needs a gap or a sprinkler head that needs to be moved. Ask the supplier to check your list. They see these lists often and can spot a missing item.