Why a Run Needs More Than a Fence
Chickens are easy prey for many animals. Depending on where you live, threats may include raccoons, foxes, coyotes, dogs, weasels, opossums, snakes, hawks and owls. These animals use different methods: some climb, some dig, some reach through openings, and some come from above. A chicken run that handles only one of these leaves the flock exposed to the others.
The goal is a fully enclosed space, meaning sides, top and ground edge are all considered. That is a different job from fencing a garden, where the main aim is to keep animals out. Here, you must keep birds in and predators out, and the second task usually sets the standard.
No run is perfectly predator-proof, and local pressure varies. A cautious approach, with layers of protection and a secure coop for the night, tends to work better than relying on one feature.
Mesh: What to Use
Poultry netting versus hardware cloth
Lightweight hexagonal poultry netting, often called chicken wire, is useful for keeping chickens in a space. Its thin wire and larger openings are generally not strong enough to stop many predators, which can tear or bend it, and some can reach through the openings.
Welded wire mesh, often sold as hardware cloth, is typically a stronger choice. Smaller openings, commonly around half an inch to an inch, keep out small animals and prevent reaching through. Heavier gauges are stronger and cost more. Look for galvanized or coated wire to resist rust, and read the product information for gauge and coating details. Heavier mesh in a larger opening is another option for upper wall sections, while smaller openings are often used low on the walls or around openings where small predators can squeeze in.
Fastening matters
Mesh is only as strong as its attachment. Staples alone can pull out. Use fence staples driven in carefully, screws with washers, or battens that sandwich the mesh against the frame. Overlap sections, and fasten along the seams so there are no gaps. The same ideas apply to all fence fasteners: choose hardware that suits the material and weather.
The Roof
Birds of prey, climbing mammals and animals that jump all reach a run from above. A covered top addresses all three. Options include:
- Solid roofing such as metal or polycarbonate panels, which also gives shade and rain protection.
- Welded wire over a frame, which allows light and airflow. A wire roof must be supported so it does not sag under snow or weight.
- Netting for the top in lower-risk areas. Light netting can deter hawks but will not stop a raccoon. Consider the actual threats before choosing.
Where the roof meets the walls, check for gaps. Raccoons in particular are known for working at corners and edges.
The Ground Edge: Aprons and Buried Mesh
Many predators dig. Two common ways to defend the base are:
- An apron. Lay mesh flat on the ground extending outward from the base of the wall, often a foot or two, and attach it to the wall. Animals that try to dig at the wall run into the mesh. Grass will grow through it over time and help hold it in place, and you can anchor it with landscape staples or cover it with soil or gravel.
- A buried skirt. Bury the mesh vertically along the base of the fence, sometimes with an outward-bent bottom edge. This takes more digging than an apron.
The right depth and width depend on the local predators and soil. If you are unsure, a wider apron is generally the cautious choice. Before digging any trench or post holes, arrange utility locating. The article on stopping dogs from digging under a fence describes related ground-edge methods.
An alternative is a solid base, such as a row of pavers, a concrete curb or a wooden board along the bottom. These work best when combined with mesh.
Posts and Frame
A strong frame stops predators from pushing or pulling panels out of place. Use posts set firmly in the ground, and brace corners. Think about wind and snow load on a roofed run. Treated lumber is common for posts and framing, but check the product guidance. Untreated wood in contact with soil tends to rot, so factor in how long you want the structure to last.
Doors, Latches and Openings
Doors and latches are among the most common failure points.
- Use latches that cannot be lifted, slid or twisted open by a clever animal. A simple hook-and-eye or slide bolt can be defeated by a raccoon, which has dexterous hands. A latch that needs two separate actions, or a locking clip, is a common precaution.
- Make sure the door closes tightly with no gap at the bottom or sides.
- Check the gate hardware. Heavy hinges and a rigid frame stop a door sagging and opening a gap.
- Cover vents and windows in the coop with mesh, not just netting.
- A small automatic coop door can help ensure birds are shut in at dusk, but it has to be reliable. Check it regularly.
The Coop at Night
Many attacks happen at night, when the birds are asleep. A well-built run is valuable during the day, while the coop is the main protection overnight. Most keepers close and latch the coop door every evening. Fully enclosed, mesh-covered ventilation is better than open vents.
Placement and Rules
Site the run on well-drained ground, since wet soil leads to health issues and rotting wood. Be aware of tree roots and overhanging branches, which can give climbing animals a way in. Local rules differ: some areas limit or ban backyard poultry, require permits, or set distances from property lines. Check local rules and any HOA requirements before you build, and be aware of property lines and noise concerns for neighbors.
Ongoing Checks
Walk the run regularly. Look for dug areas, bent or rusted mesh, loose fasteners, worn latches and signs of animals around the perimeter, such as tracks. Fix gaps quickly. Predators often return to a spot where they found a weakness. Protect against the animals you actually see, and adjust as you learn what is active near your home.