Two Different Pests, One Fence
Rabbits and groundhogs, also called woodchucks, both feed on vegetable crops, but they get in differently. Rabbits are small, fast and can squeeze through narrow openings. Groundhogs are larger, strong diggers and capable climbers. A barrier that suits both needs fine enough mesh, enough height, and a defense at ground level.
Neither animal responds to height the way deer do, so these barriers are usually much lower than a deer fence. The details are about opening size and the base of the fence.
First, confirm which animal you have. Rabbits tend to leave clean, angled cuts on stems and eat plants low to the ground. Groundhogs leave larger bites, can strip a bed quickly, and often dig a burrow with a large entrance somewhere near. Other animals, including deer, can cause similar damage, so identification matters before you spend money.
Mesh Size
For rabbits, the mesh opening is the key detail. Young rabbits can pass through surprisingly small gaps, so many sources recommend small openings, often around one inch or less for a barrier that should also stop young animals. A two-inch opening may stop adults but not smaller ones. Exact needs vary, so use the smallest opening that is practical and cost-effective.
Mesh choices include:
- Welded wire or hardware cloth. Rigid, strong and available in small openings. It is a common choice for the lower part of a garden fence. A welded wire fence in a small opening is typically the best fit for this task.
- Woven wire (field fence). Often has larger openings at the top and smaller ones at the bottom, which can suit rabbits.
- Poultry netting. Cheaper and easier to handle but lighter. It can stop rabbits when new, but a groundhog can tear or chew through it.
- Plastic netting. Light and easy to put up, but animals chew it, and it may entangle wildlife.
Coating matters for lifespan. Galvanized or vinyl-coated wire resists rust, which is useful in damp gardens. Read product details for gauge and coating.
Fence Height
Height requirements are modest. Rabbits are often stopped by a fence around two feet high, and many gardeners add a little extra so the animal cannot leap it easily. Groundhogs climb, so a taller fence, often around three to four feet, is common. Some people leave the top foot or so unattached and floppy so that a climbing groundhog tips back as its weight shifts. This works best with flexible mesh and sturdy end posts.
Use these figures as rough guides. Local conditions, animal pressure and the fence design all affect results.
Ground-Level Defense
Because both animals dig, the bottom edge needs attention. There are three common methods.
- Bury the mesh. Dig a trench along the fence line and set the lower part of the mesh down in it, then backfill. For rabbits, burying the mesh several inches may be enough. For groundhogs, a deeper trench is typically recommended, such as about a foot, since they dig more determinedly. Check local advice.
- Bend the bottom outward. Turn the bottom of the mesh out in an L shape, extending outward from the fence several inches to a foot or more. An animal that digs right at the fence hits mesh, and the bent section can be buried lightly or covered with soil, mulch or gravel. Grass and plants can grow through it and help anchor it.
- Add an apron. A flat strip of mesh laid on the ground and fastened to the fence base works along the same lines, and the stopping dogs from digging under a fence article describes related ground-edge methods.
Whichever method you use, attach the mesh to the fence so there is no gap at the seam. Before digging a trench, arrange utility locating so you do not damage buried lines. Tree roots may interfere with deep trenches, so check the spot first.
Fencing Whole Gardens or Single Beds
You can enclose the whole garden or fence individual beds.
- Whole garden. Convenient for daily work and protects everything at once. It needs gates and more material. The design of a vegetable garden fence deals with layout in more depth.
- Single beds or raised beds. A wire frame, hoops with mesh, or a hinged cover can protect the bed while the surroundings stay open. Raised beds need a cover or a fence high enough for the animal, and a mesh bottom under the bed can stop tunneling. Covers can double as protection from birds and insects.
For a bed of a few valuable crops, a short mesh fence attached to the raised bed frame may be enough.
Gates and Access
Small pests use gaps beneath and between gate parts, so a garden gate needs as much attention as the fence. Keep the gap at the bottom small, and add a strip of mesh or board if needed. Choose a latch you can work easily and that closes by itself or is hard to leave open. Self-closing hinges help if you often enter with your hands full. The gate frame should be rigid so it does not sag, and gate hardware that suits the size of the gate helps.
Placement, Trimming and Habitat
Remove cover near the fence. Brush piles, dense weeds and wood stacks give shelter to both species, and animals may be more willing to test a fence they can approach unseen. Mow or trim the strip around the outside. Do not let plants lean over the fence, since they can act as a ramp.
Check burrows before you build. Groundhogs may already have a den inside the area, and sealing the animal in makes things worse. Rules on trapping and handling wildlife differ by location, and some animals are protected or regulated, so check local wildlife rules or ask a local wildlife agency before taking action.
Upkeep
Inspect the base for dug areas, bent wire, gaps at corners and signs of chewing. Fill holes and repair mesh quickly, since animals tend to go back to a spot where they made progress. After heavy rain or frost, check that the buried edge has not been exposed. A modest, well-maintained barrier beats a larger one that has been left to fail.