Why Dogs Dig Under Fences
Digging is natural dog behavior, and the reasons vary. Some dogs dig out of boredom or excess energy. Some dig to find cooler ground in hot weather. Others chase smells or sounds from the other side, hunt small animals, or try to get to something or someone. Some breeds are more inclined than others, but individual dogs differ.
Understanding the reason helps. A dog that digs from boredom may need more exercise, company or toys alongside a stronger fence. A dog that digs at one spot may be responding to a specific trigger, such as a passing dog or a squirrel. A dog that digs to escape because of fear, such as storms, may need advice from a veterinarian or trainer. A physical barrier is a useful safeguard, but it works best together with behavior changes.
Check the Basics First
Before adding anything, look at the existing fence.
- Gaps under panels. On sloped or uneven ground, gaps open up beneath the fence. Dogs find these and enlarge them.
- Soil type. Loose, sandy soil is easy to dig. Clay can be harder but can also crack in dry weather.
- Gate area. The space beneath gates is a frequent escape point, and the ground there is often worn.
- Corners and ends. These are often less well supported.
Fill low spots first. Soil, gravel or a flat stone can close small gaps, though a determined dog may dig these out, so treat them as a temporary measure.
Buried Mesh
A mesh barrier buried along the fence line is a widely used method. The idea is that when the dog digs, it hits wire.
- Material. Welded wire or heavy-gauge fence mesh is stronger than light netting. Look for rust-resistant coatings, since buried metal is constantly damp. Product information should give gauge and coating details.
- Depth. The right depth depends on the dog and soil. A deeper trench protects more but takes more work. Many people dig a trench of a foot or so, but a larger or very determined dog may need more.
- Attachment. Fasten the mesh to the fence base so there is no gap where the dog can dig between the fence and the mesh.
- Position. Some people set the mesh vertically in a trench. Others bend it outward at the bottom in an L shape so a dog digging next to the fence runs into a horizontal surface. The L shape lets the dog dig right at the wall and is considered more effective for persistent diggers.
Before digging, arrange utility locating so you do not damage buried lines, and keep tree roots in mind, since they make trenching hard and can be harmed by digging. The same principles are used to protect against rabbits and groundhogs, which the article on rabbit and groundhog barriers describes.
An Apron Without a Trench
If trenching is hard, lay mesh flat on the ground along the fence line, extending outward a foot or two, and fasten it to the base of the fence. Pin it with landscape staples. Cover it with soil, mulch or gravel, or let grass grow through. When the dog digs at the fence, it meets mesh and may give up. Check regularly for lifting or curling edges that could catch paws.
An apron is often easier for an existing fence but is less effective against a dog that digs a few feet from the fence and then tunnels in.
Concrete Footers and Curbs
A concrete footer or curb along the bottom of the fence is the most permanent option. A narrow concrete strip, poured in a trench along the fence line, leaves little room to dig. Pavers or a row of bricks or blocks can serve as a lighter version.
Concrete is more costly and labor-intensive, and it is hard to change later. It suits new fences, or places where digging is a serious and ongoing problem. The same logic as post footings applies: the depth of the concrete, the soil and frost conditions all affect how long it lasts. In cold climates, frost heave can lift or crack footers, so find out the local frost depth.
Other Ground-Level Options
- Rocks, paving stones or large flat stones. Placed along the base, they make digging uncomfortable and difficult. Large dogs can still move smaller stones.
- Gravel strips. Dogs often dislike digging in gravel, but it is not a barrier on its own.
- Wooden boards or kickboards. A board along the bottom of the fence extends below the surface slightly and fills small gaps. Wood in contact with soil rots over time, so choose treated lumber or a rot-resistant material.
- Plants. Dense planting along the fence line can discourage digging by occupying the area, though it is rarely sufficient alone.
- Dig zone. Some owners give the dog a place where digging is allowed, such as a sandbox, and encourage the dog to use it. This can reduce digging along the fence.
Fence Styles and Digging
Open wire and chain link fences are often easier to reinforce with mesh because you can attach it to the lower section directly. Solid wood panels may have a gap under the bottom rail, which can be closed with a board or mesh. When choosing pet-friendly fencing for a digger, the base design matters as much as height.
If a dog also jumps or climbs, the full design must take that into account, as the broader discussion of planning a dog run area explains.
Gates
A gate that does not close firmly or that leaves a gap at the bottom invites digging. Keep the gate close to the ground, hang it so it clears but does not leave a big gap, and consider a mesh strip, plate or paved threshold beneath it. A latch that closes by itself helps with dogs that push. Good gate hardware keeps the gate from sagging, which opens gaps over time.
Rules and Planning
Check local fence regulations and any HOA approval requirements before building or changing a fence, and be aware of property lines when working near a boundary. Neighbors may have an interest in work done at the boundary, so talking with them early can avoid disputes.
Keep Checking
Walk the fence line regularly and look for new dig spots, particularly after rain or snow melt. Fill and reinforce them early. Protection against digging is rarely perfect, so combine the physical barrier with exercise, enrichment and supervision, and talk to your veterinarian or a qualified trainer if the digging continues.